Tuesday, November 30, 2004

Understanding Metering

Well, I'm back after a full 3 months. No I had not given up on Photography or G5! Let's just say moving and sattling into a new house and getting broadband to start working again can be very hectic. Anyways.

Here is some explation on metering and why you need to understand it.

What difference does knowing about metering make anyways ?
You mighthave noticed symbols like below on your camera's buttons or dial.



[(0)]
[ o ]
[ ]

They indicate various metering modes supported by your camera. Why is metering important? Well take a look at the two pictures below.





Evaluative Metering Mode


Spot Metering Mode

As you can see metering makes a whole lot of difference. If you want to stop doing Point and Shoot and stop taking pictures with built-in flash, you must understand metering modes to make sure that you don't end up with under exposed or over exposed pictures.

The Problem
Let's say you are doing Portrait Photography, the subject is still, you want to increase the Depth of Field and you don't really care for the shutter speed. So you will put your Camera in Aperture priority mode, so that you can playaround with DOF while Camera keeps sdjusting the shutter speed adjusting such that your subject looks well lit. Now, how does the camera know what is "well lit" or "well exposed" ?

The Solution
The simple thing that your camera trys to do is to achieve exposure level that is referred to as 18% Grey. What this means is, if the amount of light coming in through each spot in the frame was same (i.e. a simple plain frame) then the resulting picture should be a certain shade of grey marked as "18% grey" (let's not go into "why 18% ?"). Such an exposure would look like the pic below.


18% Grey


Fortunately, none of the scenes are boring like the grey screen above :-). Usually you get a mix of dark and light areas in any scene. The camera "mixes-up" all the brightness and comes up with a calculation for a shutter speed or aperture opening such that total exposure is equivalent to the 18% grey pic above, no matter what the scene is. This calculation is called the Metering. In aperture priority mode, it is used to select the shutter speed; and in Shutter priority mode, it is used to select the aperture.

Going back to smart stove analogy (see "Cooking and Photography"), metering is equivalent to deciding how much heat is required to cook any particular food. Different ways of doing this are referred to as different metering modes.

In metering process, Your camera "looks" at the scene, checks how much various areas of the frame are lit and decides how much total exposure (total light) is required to create the picture such that it is equivalent to 18% grey shade.

For example, G5 supports following three Meterting Modes

Evaluative Metering [(0)]
Camera divides the scene into several zones and does calculations to come up with the right exposure. In Other words, Camera gives equal importance to the entire scene to make sure that over all best exposure is achived in the entire scene.



Evaluative Metering Mode


Take a second look at the elephant image with Evaluative Metering above. You can see that as most of the background is bright, to achive 18% grey level, the camera reduces the exposure to such an extent that we lose the fine artwork details in the elephant body as they are underexposed.

Center Weighted Metering [ ]
This is similar to the Evaluative Metering, except for the fact that instead of giving equal impiortance to all areas, Camera gives higher importance to center of the image. In other words, Camera trys to make sure that the center is properly exposed and may make compromise (underexpose or overexpose) the rest of the image.

Below is the same scene with center weighted Metering.




Center Weighted Metering Mode


This time, the camera is giving higher importance to the middle of the scene i.e. makes sure they dont get underexposed. Even after giving less importance to surrounding areas (i.e. risk over exposure as they are brighter) We are getting the artwork details on the elephant a little bit underexposed.

Spot Metering [o]
In this mode, the camera only considers a very small area of the screen to decide exposure level. In G5 this area can be selected as a small part in the Center or a small area around the adjustable Auto Focus Point. The Camera makes sure that 18% grey exposure is achived in this spot area, and doesn't care for over/under exposure in rest of the frame.





Spot Metering Mode



Take a second look at the Elephant image with Spot Metering above. As the center spot was selected, which happens to be covering mainly the back and side of the elephant body, the camera tried to achive 18% grey exposure in this area. So all the artwork details have come out very well. But the camera completely disregarded the exposure level in rest of the frame. To achive the required exposure in spot area, which has a lot of black, Camera reduced the shutter speed so much that the rest of the frame is completely overexposed ! But hey, we did get our artwork details !
Important things to remember about Metering Modes
  • Metering is camera's way of deciding how much exposure is required.
  • Evaluative metering mode trys to make the whole picture properly exposed.
  • Center Weighted metering mode trys to make sure that objects towards the center are properly exposed, objects on the edges may be under or over exposed.
  • Spot metering mode trys to calculates exposure based only on what is in the selected spot area. Rest of the frame can be over or under exposed.
  • The only time you are NOT using Camera's metering is when you go in full "Manual" mode, when you have to select both aperture and shutter speed.This makes it very important that you understand metering modes properly.

    [UPDATE : In all the other exposure modes like full auto, other programmed modes, or priority modes like aperture priority or shutter priority, the camera is selecting at least one parameter for you. So it has to use its metering algorithms based on the metering mode you have selected.

    In manual mode, you are selecting everything, so you are not really using camera's metering capabilities inherently. However that does not mean it becomes unavailable. Modern digital cameras show some form of indicator regarding how you are doing based on your selected parameters, compared to cameras metering. i.e. It may show you, how many stops above or below you are with respect to cameras metering. You don't have to use it, but it's there for reference. ]
  • Pay attention to subjects in your scene and make sure that you are not losing details in the shadows. Play around with various metering modes and try to get the details right.

The Backlit Subject
Above the elephant is heavily backlit subject. And we played around with spot metering to get the details out correctly, but at the cost of washing out rest of the frame in white over exposure! Well, there is a better way to take this picture and get oth the background scene as well as the main subject (a mainly black body) without losing the fine details. We can achive this by illuminating the elephant... I am talking about firing the flash!

Evaluative metering with Fill in Flash
As we saw, we were either losing details in the elephant or in the background. But if we fire the flash, then due to the extra light, the artwork details come out and our background scene which is very bright also comes out nice! This technique is commonly referred to as "Fill in Flash" as the Flash is used to fill in the details. Compare this image with the Evaluative Metering image and you can see how the flash is filling inthe details.
This is a very simple but very effective techniques while taking pictures at Sunset or in other backlit conditions where you can't use spot metering.

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Saturday, July 31, 2004

The F Number - Demystified

In any camera that allows you to have control over aperture, the aperture setting is done using what is referred to as F stops. For example, in my Canon G5, the F stops are as follows.

2.0, 2.2, 2.5, 2.8, 3.2, 3.5, 4.0, 4.5, 5.0, 5.6, 6.3, 7.1, 8.0

What this means is, I can set the Aperture on my Canon G5 to any of these values. So what does it mean to set the aperture to F2.0 or F4.5 etc ? Every newbie, faces some confusions with these F numbers.



  • They don't seem to follow a linear series like 1, 2, 3, 4
  • Notation keeps varying like f/2.0 or F2.0.
  • The number is supposed to indicate a value of Aperture but there is no "A" in the notation!
  • Any time there is a discussion about increasing or decreasing aperture, people don't use these numbers. They talk about "stops", like move up 1 stop or move down half a stop etc.

So what's up with this numbers ? The concept behind these number is not that complicated, but the notations and varying terminology to describe the same thing leaves some room to explain.

Aperture is the size of the opening that lets light in to be exposed on your CCD or film. To control the amount of light that is exposed, you vary the size of the Aperture, i.e. the area of the opening. To reduce the amount of light entering by half, the aperture area can be reduced to half. When the aperture is reduced to half the size, than that is called one full stop reduction of aperture area. Similarly when the aperture i.e. the area of the opening is doubled, that is called one full stop increment of aperture area. Let's say the maximum opening of aperture is the zero stop and we keep reducing the aperture from there, each time reducing the area by half i.e. by one full stop. In the figure below, the circles on the left show what the area would look like from zero stop to 5 stops. On the right is a graph, showing how diameter changes as we reduce area by half with each stop.


If you are technical or if you remember your geometry class, you can figure out that, to reduce the area to half (divide by 2), the diameter of the circle must be divided by square-root of 2 = 1.41421356.


Now in any cameras, if we had to deal with measurements of the diameter to control the aperture, it would be impractical to operate. So instead of actual dimension, the diameter is noted as a fraction of focal length f of the lens of the camera. So let's say maximum diameter of aperture is equal to half of the focal length, then this diameter is noted as f/2.0.


Next, let's say we want to move to next stop, then
the diameter of aperture at next stop = f/2.0 *1/1.41421356 = f/2.82842.
Similarly as we continue to next stops, we see the diameter as indicated by following series.


stop 0 = f/2.00000
stop 1 = f/2.82842
stop 2 = f/4.00000
stop 3 = f/5.65685
stop 4 = f/8.00000
stop 5 = f/11.31370
stop 6 = f/16.00000
stop 7 = f/22.62741
stop 8 = f/32.00000


The F number that you see on your dial or on your LCD when you play around with Aperture is this divider. However, in any camera, having aperture values at full stop intervals only is not enough. One would definitely want to have finer level of control over aperture than just double the light coming in or reduce it by half. That's why most of the cameras provide aperture values at half stops or 1/3 stops. You can imagine intermediate values of diameter at 1/2 or 1/3 positions between various full stop positions on the STOPS graph above.

In case of half stops, between each consecutive full stop aperture values, there will be one more value which is derived by dividing the bigger diameter by fourth root of 2 = 1.1892071 . Another thing worth note over here is that each move to next F number reduces the amount of light to about 71% (70.71% to be precise) of previous setting. So moving twise reduces the light to 0.7071*0.7071 =0.5 = 50% = full stop as desired.

We are more interested in one third stops because that is what G5 has.

In case of one third stop intermediate aperture values, each time next diameter is derived by dividing previous diameter by sixth root of 2 = 1.1224620


With that formula, the series you'll get is...


f/2.00000 = stop 0
f/2.24492 = stop 0 + 1/3
f/2.51984 = stop 0 + 2/3
f/2.82842 = stop 1
f/3.17480 = stop 1 + 1/3
f/3.56359 = stop 1 + 2/3
f/4.00000 = stop 2
f/4.48984 = stop 2 + 1/3
f/5.03968 = stop 2 + 2/3
f/5.65685 = stop 3
f/6.34960 = stop 3 + 1/3
f/7.12718 = stop 3 + 2/3
f/8.00000 = stop 4


As you can see below, this is what canon G5 offers.


2.0, 2.2, 2.5, 2.8, 3.2, 3.5, 4.0, 4.5, 5.0, 5.6, 6.3, 7.1, 8.0


In this case, each time you move to next F number in aperture setting, the amount of light reduces to approximately 80% (79.37% to be precise) of the previous setting. This way after three moves, the amount of light reduces to 0.7937 * 0.7937 * 0.7937 = 0.5 = 50% or full stop as desired.


Things to remember about Aperture setting and F number


  • F number is an indicator of aperture of camera, it denotes the diameter of the aperture as a fraction of the focal length of the lens.
  • F2.0 or f/2.0 means the same thing, they are just different notations.
  • Smaller F number means larger aperture = more light.
  • Larger F number = smaller aperture = less light.
  • Moving one full stop to a higher F number reduces the light to half and moving one full F stop to lower number means doubling the amount of light.
  • If your camera provides 1/3 stops, then to move a full stop will require moving to the third number in the series. Similarly, if your camera provides 1/2 stops you will have to move two numbers in the series, to move a full stop.
    For example, in G5 a move from F2.0 to F2.8 is a full stop and reduce the light by half. But a move from F2.2 to F3.2 or F2.5 to F3.5 is also a full stop and reduces the light by half.
  • 1/2 stop movement reduces the light to 71%
  • 1/3 stop movement reduces the light to 80%

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